Browning the neck and giblets, as well as the vegetables, produces a wonderfully rich stock and, subsequently, a much more flavorful gravy.

Yield: Makes about 4 cups
Active Time: 10 min
Total Time: 1 hr

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Neck and giblets (excluding liver) from a 12- to 14-lb turkey
1 celery rib, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 onion (not peeled), quartered
1 3/4 cups chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
4 cups water
1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Cut neck into 1-inch pieces. Brown neck, giblets, celery, carrot, and onion, turning occasionally, about 6 minutes. Add chicken stock, scraping up brown bits.

Transfer mixture to a 3-quart saucepan. Add water, bay leaf, peppercorns, and thyme and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced to about 4 cups, 40 to 45 minutes.

Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl (discard solids). Skim off and discard any fat.