Use Mexican adobo, a vinegary chile paste, to season any protein. For this recipe, the shrimp is chopped, so there's no need to splurge on a larger size.

Yield: Makes 6 servings

6 dried ancho chiles, stemmed
4 garlic cloves
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2 teaspoons kosher salt plus more for seasoning
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 pounds small or medium uncooked shrimp, preferably wild American, peeled, deveined, cut into 1/4" pieces
Ingredient info: Dried ancho chiles are available at specialty foods stores, Latin markets, and some supermarkets.

Heat a large dry cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add chiles; toast, turning often, until just fragrant, about 1 minute. Let cool.

Using kitchen scissors and working over a medium bowl, cut chiles into 1" rings, reserving seeds. Cover chiles with 1/2 cup hot water; let soak, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Transfer chiles with seeds and soaking liquid to a blender. Add garlic, vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, oregano, cumin, and sugar and purée until a smooth, thick paste forms. Transfer adobo paste to a large bowl; add shrimp and toss until evenly coated.

Preheat broiler. Place shrimp on a rimmed baking sheet in an even layer. Broil, watching closely and stirring halfway through, until shrimp are just cooked through and are browned in spots, 4-5 minutes. Season with salt.